✨ A Magical Stop in Oudewater: Stepping Into Witchcraft History ✨
By Sandy | Timeless Travels with Sandy
Tucked between Utrecht and Gouda lies the charming little town of Oudewater—a place that seems pulled straight from the pages of a fairy tale. Cobblestone streets, leaning gabled houses, and flower-covered bridges make it feel like time moves a bit slower here. But beneath its picturesque surface lies a truly unique and powerful slice of history.
We visited Oudewater specifically to explore the Museum de Heksenwaag, or the Witches’ Weighhouse—a site deeply tied to the witch trials that swept across Europe in the Middle Ages and beyond. As someone passionate about the history of witchcraft and the old ways, this visit was incredibly meaningful.
🧙♀️ Museum de Heksenwaag: A Rare Beacon of Fairness
Inside the museum, we were transported back in time. The weighhouse once served as a place where people accused of witchcraft could be officially weighed to determine if they were “light enough to fly”—a myth used to justify horrific persecution throughout Europe.
But in Oudewater, unlike many other places during the witch-hunting era, something remarkable happened: those weighed here were always declared innocent; not a single person was ever declared a witch in Oudewater. The town took great pride in its fair weighing process. People accused of witchcraft elsewhere would travel here, obtain an official certificate of innocence, and often use it to clear their name and avoid punishment.
Standing on the original scales, I felt a deep sense of reverence and sorrow for those who lived during such fearful times. The museum is small but packed with powerful storytelling, historical artifacts, and interactive experiences.
💡 Fun Fact: To this day, visitors can stand on the original scales and receive their own certificate—just like those who came seeking justice centuries ago. Jason and I both stood on the scales and received our certificates declaring we aren’t witches… or did one of us just put a spell on the caretaker? 😉
🌿 Wandering the Enchanted Streets
After the museum, we took our time wandering through the town’s canals and quiet streets. It’s the kind of place where you feel the past just beneath the surface. We stopped at a delightful place for a cozy coffee at Grand Café Hex by Paul & Inge, directly across the side street from the museum, along the water, admired the quirky little shops, and felt completely at peace.
Oudewater may be small, but its soul is immense—and its story is unforgettable.
🏰 Historical & Cultural Highlights
- City Rights since 1265: One of the oldest towns in the Utrecht province
- Heksenwaag (Witches’ Weighhouse): Dating back to the 16th century, this building is one of the few places where accused witches were given a fair trial
- Strategic riverside location: Once an important hub for trade in medieval Holland
- Charming architecture: Traditional Dutch facades, canals, and tiny alleys make it a photographer’s dream
🧙♂️ Why Visit Oudewater?
If you’re interested in witchcraft history, folklore, or hidden gems, Oudewater is a must-see. Unlike the more tourist-filled cities, this town offers a quiet, intimate look at a time when superstition and fear ruled—but also when fairness, like in Oudewater, shone through.
It’s perfect for a day trip from Utrecht or Gouda, or as part of a magical historical journey through the Netherlands.
📍 Practical Tips for Visiting Oudewater
Getting There:
- 🚆 By train: From Utrecht, take a train to Woerden and a local bus to Oudewater (~45 min)
- 🚗 By car: Easily accessible by road; parking available near the center
- 🚴 By bike: Gorgeous countryside routes if you’re cycling from nearby towns
When to Go:
- 🌷 Spring and Fall: Ideal for weather, flowers, and fewer crowds
- 🕰 Check museum hours: heksenwaag.nl for seasonal changes and ticket info
Where to Stay:
- 🛏 Day trip option: Stay in nearby Utrecht or Gouda
- 🏡 Overnight option: Book a local B&B for an immersive and peaceful experience
📚 Final Thoughts
Oudewater is a quiet town with a loud story to tell. In a world where so many were wrongly accused, tortured, and executed, this little town stood for justice, reason, and humanity. It reminded me that even in the darkest times, there are places—and people—who choose to do what’s right.
If your travels ever take you through the Netherlands, Oudewater is absolutely worth the stop. Come for the history, stay for the magic. ✨



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